The costume codex

The Costume Codex

The Costume Codex by Christoph Weiditz (1498–1560) is the first of its kinds with its depictions of European fashions, Spanish and Dutch in particular, from every class. These are accompanied by the first European depictions of the Aztecs brought back to Spain by Hernán Cortés (1485–1547), Weiditz was able to observe their presentations during his time at the imperial court of Charles V. The collection from his Spanish travels between 1528 and 1529 is remarkable, the German painter recorded everything he found interesting with his pen. As a result, that could equally be Spanish farmers ploughing or the colorful life and hustle of the port of Barcelona.

Fascination with Everyday Life

During his travels through Spain, it was the particulars of everyday life from which Weiditz drew the inspiration for his depictions. Thus, he was not only fascinated by the well-organized water system but also by the storage of wine in goat wine skins. Additionally, he recorded the imposing impression of the city and rural police in numerous depictions. When he arrived in Barcelona, his interest was aroused by the diverse life and bustle of the harbor. Thus, one finds pictures of horses being loaded unto ships, cranes being repaired, and numerous water bearers.

Costumes and Customs of the Netherlands

Alongside the comprehensive collection of pictures from the Spanish tour, there are also ten folios from a longer sojourn in the Netherlands. The depictions are primarily concerned with the costumes and customs in Hainaut, Flanders, Zealand, and Friesland. Therefore, one sees maids from Zealand who are kneading dough and a woman from Hainaut occupied with her needlepoint work.

Well-Known Faces

While a large part of the depictions are dedicated to unknown faces, there are a few costume pictures of identifiable people, who are opulently presented to the reader by Weiditz’s seemingly modern interest in costume history. The rich heiress Doña Mencía Zenette from the House of Mendoza is particularly well-dressed in a red-violet dress with olive-colored cuffs on the sleeves. Conversely, the Spanish ship master Andreas Doria enters in simple black clothes to encounter the emperor in Barcelona.